France - Hiking in the very heart of the Pyrenees

You arrive to the first hotel in Arrens-Marsous. You stay in one of our favourite places in the whole of the Pyrenees, although it is "only" a chambres d'hotes rather than a hotel. Maison Sempé is a beautiful 17th Century village house built of stone and wood in the local style with so much character and ambience that descriptions don't do justice to. The bedrooms (with en suite facilities, of course) are truly memorable with wooden balconies that give you wonderful views of the village's stone houses and the hills beyond. What makes it even more special are your hosts, Sylvie and Jean-Paul, who speak English, are most welcoming, and are full of fascinating information about the area. You'll also eat well!

Hotel (example): Maison Sempé

You begin your journey with gentle valley walking to the 12th century golden chapel, or chapel of stars, at Pouey Luan before taking an ancient lane up through woods. You are now on the famous GR10, which runs for 900 kilometres from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, yet, except from July to mid August, you can walk all day and barely see anybody other than shepherds. At the Col des Bordéres, you can see the restored summer barns and shepherds' accommodation in use as they have been for centuries, and at the summit called Predousset you can enjoy magnificently panoramic views over the Azun valley. You now stroll through extensive alpine type pastures, rich with flowers in early summer, and begin your descent to the tiny valley of Estaing. Finally for today, you follow the stream to arrive at Estaing lake with its reflections of the peaks all around.

d'Estaing with wonderful views, and situated close the the banks of the lake. This is the antithesis of the boutique hotel, and all the better for it, giving you an authentic flavour of Pyrenean hospitality, not least with its traditional menu featuring duck, locally foraged mushrooms and lamb with blueberries. A memorable stay, we promise!

Walking: approx. 5 hours
Distance: 12-18km
+800m / -800m
Hotel (example): Maison Sempé

You continue up the GR10 through pine forest and on to the high pastures at Arrioussec where you will see herds of the traditional horned cream cows of the Pyrenees, which are so tranquil that you can often walk among them without any of them moving an inch! From the Col d'Ilhéou, you walk to Ilhéou lake - a great place for a well earned rest - then can enjoy a gentle downhill walk to the lovely Cambasque valley where we meet you to save those just-a-little-too-far extra miles to Cauterets. A really rewarding day's walking.
Now for many of us, Cauterets is an enigma. On the one hand, it is a somewhat austere stone-built mountain town, but, on the other hand, since the 18th century it has been a spa town popular, even today, with those wanting or needing to benefit from its sulphurous waters. What is still called "taking the cure". The three star Hótel le Lion d'Or is also an enigma. At first sight it is an unchanged traditional hotel with a wonderfully retro ambience, yet it has been very expensively and extensively refurbished right through to space age showers! The best of both worlds, especially as the menu remains true to its historic roots.

Walking: approx. 6 hours
Distance: 12km
+1050m / -850m
Hotel (example): Chambres d'hôtes Les Ruisseaux 

As you will by now have realised, mornings generally begin with an uphill climb, while afternoons are for descending - essentially because towns and villages are in
valleys - and today is no different, except you have a lot of ascent and minimal descent - but then you have a privileged stay tonight still high up in the Pyrenees.

You begin by walking up to Gaube lake in which you will see mirrored the imposing grandeur of the north face of Vignemale and the crevasses of the Petit Vignemale glacier - one of the most beautiful and dramatic of panoramic views in the Pyrenees. You now walk alongside a glacial torrent, and among alpine meadows interspersed with numerous waterfalls before arriving at the Oulettes mountain refuge from which mountaineers climb Grand Vignemale (3298m). You, however, climb up gradually to the Col d'Ossoue, which gets you very close to Petit Vignemale. You can climb to the summit if you want to, or just go straight down to the wonderful Baysellance refuge where you will spend a truly memorable night.

Built of stone with a copper vaulted roof in 1899, and refurbished in 2003, this unique refuge is the highest staffed refuge in the Pyrenees at 8,000 feet, and offers simple, shared accommodation with private, but shared bathrooms (no hot showers), unfussy but plentiful meals, a warm welcome from Peio and Morgane, a convivial atmosphere, and, above all, a magnificent location, both in daylight and at night when the light pollution-free stars seem almost as close as the mountains. It really does feel like a privilege staying here.

Walking: approx. 5-6 hours
Distance: 12,5km
+1300m / -100m
Hotel (example): Baysellance Refuge

Get up early enough, and you will see the sun rise over Ossoue glacier - well worth it! You can take pleasure in the fact that where yesterday was all about ascending, today is all about descending. You walk down the lovely Ossoue valley with its streams, waterfalls - and marmottes. In meadow areas at certain altitudes, they are ubiquitous, and eminently photogenic. However, your eyes will increasingly be captivated by the sight of the Cirque de Gavarnie, which you may be surprised to find actually challenges some of yesterday's panoramic views as the best you've ever seen!
You stay for 2 nights at the positively traditional and very comfortable two star Hotel du Marbore in the centre of Gavarnie village, but with exceptional views of the Cirque de Gavarnie and the 1,300 feet Grand Cascade waterfall, not least from its terrace. Bernard will prepare dishes for you which bring together the best of traditional Pyrenean cuisine (stews, meats, mushrooms, cheeses and more), while Roseline will ensure you have a warm welcome, and everything you need.

Walking: approx. 6 hours
Distance: 15,5km
+100m / -1400m
Hotel (example): Hotel Marboré

This is what most people regard as the most exceptional and memorable site in the whole of the Pyrenees. You walk fairly gently up a wide pat to the Bellevue plateau, with privileged panoramas of the high mountain scenery all around you. From the top, you descend into the centre of the enormous natural "amphitheatre" that is
the Cirque du Gavarnie with its myriad waterfalls - many impressively long and powerful - sheer bare rock cliffs, and contrasting peaceful valley bottom.

The appropriately named Grande Cascade at about 1,300 feet is over 300 feet higher than the Eiffel Tower and one of the highest in Europe. The bucolic final section is along the valley bottom, or, more challengingly, by the Espugues route, which cuts across a rocky cliff face. Either way, you arrive back in the village of Gavarnie. Truly memorable, we are confident you will agree.
you stay a second night at the Hótel du Marboré.

Walking: approx. 4-5 hours
Distance: 11km
+500m / -500m
Hotel (example): Hotel Marboré

We transfer you to the Troumouse valley so you can begin your walk visiting the historic Héas chapel - a 16th century pilgrimage chapel built to house a wooden Black Madonna found by local shepherds, and which miraculously (say some) survived an avalanche - before gradually walking up to the Aires cabin situated in the middle of the incredible "arena" that is the Cirque de Troumousse, rising to almost 10,000 feet. You then descend to the Auberge de Maillet before continuing to the much photographed turquoise waters of the Gloriettes lake, which often reflects the magnificence that is Mont Perdu.
There can be no doubts about why this whole area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can now either get picked up here or descend on foot to Gedre village (adding an extra 2h30m) by crossing the Coumély plateau with its historic stone barns, and then taking the Lucien Briet footpath descending steeply (but safely) down to the village. And that, we're afraid to say, is it for this walking holiday.

For your last night, you stay at the recently refurbished, very comfortable and renowned three star Hótel de la Bréche de Roland with its impressive and enjoyable restaurant serving local traditional dishes transformed into contemporary masterpieces by chef-owner Philippe Pujo. The Bréche de Roland - Roland's Breach - is a 40 metre wide, 100 metre high gap in the cliffs dividing the two sides of the High Pyrenees, and legend claims it was cut by Count Roland using his sword Durendal after losing the 8th century Battle of Roncesvalles. The hotel is the only place that you can see the breach from the bottom of the valley.

Walking: approx. 5 hours
Distance: 14,5km
+800m / -600m
Hotel (example): Hôtel de la Brèche de Roland

After breakfast, we will take you back to Arrens-Marsous to collect your car.
You can choose to stay an extra night at the three star Hótel Beauséjour in Lourdes to visit the religious sites, and take the funicular up to the Pic du Jer, which has exceptional panoramic views.