TRAVEL DIARY FROM MADEIRA

By: Christina Dimmestøl Oksnes

01.03.22

DAY 1
ARRIVAL
We arrived at Hotel Costa Linda in Porto de Cruz, which is right by the water. The landscape is dramatic and you can hear the sound of the big waves crashing into the rocks, and the rocks rolling back and forth with the water. It's so incredibly beautiful, we got a superior room with a large balcony.  Sandro came and held a welcome meeting at 19.00, we got route material and good information. There were three others who were going on the trip. We were very hungry and found an insanely good restaurant called A Pipa, it was much better and cheaper than the fish restaurant that belonged to the hotel. We shared tuna, octupus stew, salad and a regional garlic bread called bolo do caco. It was deliciously good! Recommendations for cheap and good bottled red wines are Chimé and Monte Velho. Important before the trip is to download the GPX files.

02.03.22

DAY 2
MACHICO – PORTO DA CRUZ
Through the southern part of the island to the wild and beautiful north coast
After breakfast, I made a packed lunch and packed my rucksack. We were picked up at 0900 by Pedro and driven to Machico. Incredibly nice little town, nice to start the first trip of the day with a little bath.

The highlight of the day was definitely the end of the trip, walking along the dramatic, wild and beautiful north coast. The lush and green cliffs took my breath away.
Recommend poles, woollen top and light rain jacket. It took just under 5 hours with a small lunch break.

03.03.22

DAY 3
PORTO DA CRUZ – SANTANA – LEVADA DO REI – SAO VICENTE
The peaceful north coast

We first stopped in Santana to have a small coffee and see the traditional houses of Madeira.
We had to cut today's hike short due to a landslide.

Today's hike was really nice and easy. We walked along the ancient water channels along the mountainside. It's so beautiful, green and lush. There was not much up and down today and it took about 4 hours. We checked into the hotel it was raining a lot so we thought it was time to try Poncha which is the traditional drink in Madeira. Poncha is a drink with a lot of sugar and a lot of rum, I think the one with Maracuja (passion fruit) was the best and not as strong as the others. We found a poncha bar and drank a few too many ponchas!

04.03.22

DAY 4
SAO VICENTE – PAUL DA SERRA – PORTO MONIZ

Today we were high up and it was quite cold, we were up at 1200-1400 metres above sea level. On the hike today we were surrounded by laurel trees. It was a lovely walk through a cloud forest and there was not much up and down. The fog followed me on most of the hike today and it was a bit cold. I regretted not bringing more clothes. Occasionally the clouds lifted and I got to go to several lookout points, which in Portuguese is called Mira Douro. There were beautiful views of mountains and green valleys. We arrived in Porto Moniz, which is a lovely little town known for its natural pools.

05.03.22

DAY 5
PORTO MONIZ – CALHETA

Quite flat at the start of the trip and it was nice to get some sun on the body.

It was a long descent at the end, the others took a taxi down to Calheta after the long flat route along the water channels. I decided to walk, it was hard and I wouldn't recommend this for anyone with bad knees! It took quite a long time and it was hard to walk so steeply down. There were many beautiful plants and trees on the way down and I met a local farmer who said that everything grows here, he had just planted many new papaya trees. When I finally arrived in Calheta, I went straight to the beach to take a bath and stretch out a bit. The hotel is the nicest hotel I've ever been to, it was really warm and lovely. There was beer and sunbathing on top of the hotel after the trip.

I recommend the restaurant at the hotel

06.03.22

DAY 6
CALHETA – CABO GIRAO – FUNCHAL
Today we had the choice of shortening the walk by an hour, but I chose to walk the whole walk (I was the only one who chose this). I walked through the small mountain town of Eira do Mourao to Cabo Girao. Again a lovely walk through a lush flower paradise.

I met 85-year-old Augostino who was out for a short walk, he said he walks every day. Impressive views in Cabo Girao! I took the bus to Funchal.

07.03.22

DAY 7
MONTE TO THE BOTANICAL GARDEN
Today we slept in and had a nice long breakfast. We walked down to the gondola and took it up to Monte. It was very far down and a little scary to take the gondola, but very nice! We walked along the water channels for a bit before it went steeply down to the botanical garden. We stopped for some lunch and wine before entering the garden. It cost 6 euros, but it was definitely worth it. I didn't realise how impressed I was going to be with the huge cacti. I love Madeira, this won't be the last time.

08.03.22

DAY 8
Back home!